You can taste wine in the U.S., but sipping, swirling and sniffing Presecco from the DOCG (denomination of origin controlled and guaranteed) region in which it originated, was a real treat.
We started at Ca' Salina: Hospitality. Resting on the top of a steep hill overlooking miles of vineyards, the bright yellow winery resembles a comfortable family home with a welcoming charm. When we arrived, owners, Gregorio Bortolin and his wife Neva, flashed smiles from ear to ear asking, "Do you know what you would like to taste?" The tasting room was open and airy, and lined with hundreds of bottles produced using grapes from their very own vineyards; a process that began almost twenty years ago. This year's variations were on display near the back. Brut, dry, extra dry and rosé.
We started with the brut. Unlike other tastings, we were poured a generous glass of Rivéte, superiore brut prosecco. It was light and fruity. Ideal for a hot, sunny day. Did you know brut flavors actually taste dry, where as extra dry variations typically contain a sweeter taste. Next, we were offered Siròcol, Valdobbiadene superiore extra dry. Another heavy-handed pour. This prosecco is made from the best of the Bortolin family grapes. It was fuller than the brut, but also similarly soft. Much sweeter and crisp. We enjoyed this full glass, before sipping the rosé - much too candied for my tastes. I'll stick with the extra dry, a comfortable chair and an afternoon on this mountaintop.
For our second stop, we took a proper tour of Bisol, a much older, larger winery a few windy streets away. One of the most famous prosecco makers, the Bisol family has been making sparkling wine since 1875 and growing grapes for centuries before. About 65 acres of vineyards planted in horizontal patterns surrounded the winery. We arrived three weeks shy of harvest, which begins September 5. The winery closes and their staff quadruples. More than 80 workers tend to the vineyards picking grapes and making initial preparations for the 2012 bottles.
This is one of the few wineries around that produces wine using both the classic and Charmat methods. We were able to see both. Above ground, the factory is filled with machines used to fill, cork or package bottles before fermentation (a process that takes no less than three years). In the dark, dozens of autoclaves are stored in the basement and contain slow aging prosecco; part of the Charmat process. Individual fermenting bottles also line the basement walls. Yeast rests at the bottom of each bottle, which are manually rotated to continue the process. At the conclusion of the tour, an unground tasting room with stone floors and original, 18th century equipment offers an exciting atmosphere to taste the family's many creations.
We tried three prosecco flavors, a rich red wine, and a delicious port.
Unique to the family, the Bisol winery also has an exclusive contract with Ferarri. For the sports car's 50th anniversary in 1997, the winery produced a special Ferrari prosecco. Only 1,997 bottles were created. The first 1,000 were sent directly to owners, while the remaining 997 are kept at the winery and only available to drivers who arrive in their Ferarri and show proof of ownership.
To conclude the day, we stopped at a hidden spot just three minutes away. A charming two-story house rests at the top of a narrow walkway lined with grapevines. Wine, cheese and meat variations are available for purchase using the honor system. A fridge of treats rests in the corner next to a price sheet and cash box. Hundreds of hand-written napkin notes written by satisfied guests smother the ceiling and walls. It's a rather simple system here. Choose your snacks, grab a cutting board and a knife, a few wine glasses, place euros in the box, and walk through the vine-covered arcade to tables at a lookout a hundred feet away. A great end to a greater day. The lookout has the best view of the prosecco wine region.
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